Specializing in dried shrimp production, the tiny island of Mexcaltitán makes a great off the beaten path destination in western Mexico.
The tiny oval-shaped island of Mexcaltitán (less than a mile in circumference) is located off the Pacific coast of Mexico in the state of Nayarit. Mexcaltitán sits low in the marshy, mangrove-lined channels that surround it, and during the months of September, October, and December, water floods the streets and everyone rows from place to place in boats. This has given the island the occasional nickname of the Venice of Mexico, but a more accurate description might be the Island of Shrimp.
Shrimp are a staple food for the approximately 1300 residents, and shrimping is a daily activity. You’ll immediately notice that almost every sidewalk is covered with boiled shrimp laid out in a single layer to dry in the sun. Glimpses through the doorways of the crumbling concrete houses that line the sidewalks reveal yet more pink carpets of shrimp, and many rooftops serve as drying racks as well.
These dried shrimp can be cooked into more complex dishes or just eaten as-is for a crunchy snack. In fact, if you ask permission, you’ll most likely be welcome to try a couple directly off the sidewalk – just pull of the head, tail, and legs, and chow down. Most of the island’s shrimp pass through a cooperativo, where you can get an impromptu tour of the entire process. Stop into one of Mexcaltitán’s few small restaurants later, and you’ll likely eat the shrimp you saw that same day.
What to Do in Mexcaltitán
The streets of Mexcaltitán are laid out like the spokes of a wheel with a park in the center. Here you will find a church and a museum with sporadic hours of operation. Otherwise there is little in the way of “sights.” Be prepared to slow way down when spending time among the very friendly residents of this sleepy town with no cars, no Internet café, and no movie theater. Shrimpers returning with the day’s haul, old folks sitting outside chatting, boys playing marbles in the street – those are the sights. You are off the beaten path.
If that’s not enough, ask around to find someone willing to take you around the island and through the nearby mangrove channels by boat. A boat tour will allow you to check out the local wildlife, especially the large number of stark white egrets nesting in the marshes.
You’ll also pass through the communal shrimp traps (pescas). These traps are made of reeds and small branches and stretch across the channels like gates, trapping shrimp and the occasional fish. Any resident is free to try his luck at any trap, so timing and diligence are crucial to ensuring a good catch.
At night the town square really comes alive, with loud American and Mexican pop music blasting and young boys jostling for a turn at arcade games. If you’re tired of shrimp and fish, this is your chance to vary your diet with a few tacos from the several stands that appear in the evening. At two pesos (US 25 cents) each, with all the communal salsa you care to pile on, these are a great bargain.
Where to Stay in Mexcaltitán
Accommodation choices in Mexcaltitán are limited to one: the Hotel Ruta Azteca, which is on the opposite end of the island from the main dock – a three block walk. All rooms are basic, with fan and cold water only. There is a small restaurant serving snacks and drinks.
How to Get to Mexcaltitán
Given the lack of “must-see” sights, and slight effort involved in reaching the island, Mexcaltitán receives very few foreign tourists. This is a plus for the tourist who does show up, as the residents are unjaded and happy to chat with visitors. Unless you have your own boat, the only way to reach Mexcaltitán is via a public lancha (simple, small motorboat) from La Batanga. A taxi or combi from Santiago Ixcuintla will drop you off directly in front of the dock.
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