Rio Caliente: West Mexico's Hot River

Bathing, Hiking and Biking at a Natural Spa near Guadalajara

Jul 15, 2008

Rio Caliente is a hot river running through cool, pine-covered hills near Guadalajara, Mexico. The mineral-rich stream offers hikers a soothing, natural massage.

One of the longest rivers in western Mexico begins its journey in the Primavera Forest near Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city, and perhaps one of the country’s best-kept secrets. The river literally boils its way out of the ground as El Río Caliente (the hot river) and eventually cools to become the Ameca River which then meanders westward for 130 miles until it spills into the Pacific Ocean at Puerto Vallarta.

Hot Spots

This river is only a few yards wide and conveniently shallow for wading. However, the way the stream bubbles over and around its many large rocks, creates a white-water look that might remind you of the Swiss Alps. Don't believe it! Wherever you enter the river, test it gingerly, as some spots are hotter than others, due to the influx of both hot and cold tributaries at various points.

As you walk along the river bank, you are bound to come across a small pool just to your liking, one that may have several different temperature zones and more than one natural hydro massage where the pummeling hot spray will dissolve your tension and cares in a matter of minutes. Note that this alkaline (pH 8.3) water contains traces of a wide variety of mineral salts, including natural, organic lithium. One hour in this soothing, bubbling mineral water will leave you in a state of dreamy relaxation.

Grassy Meadows and Steaming Springs

If you enjoy hiking or mountain-biking, you’ll find trails paralleling the hot river for miles. These take you deeper and deeper into the Primavera Forest, which consists mainly of pine and oak trees atop rolling hills occasionally separated by narrow, deep canyons.

At an altitude of 5100 feet, this area is generally cool and pleasant all year round, just what you’d expect from a place called primavera (springtime). Alongside the river there are picturesque grassy meadows where you will probably come across a few steaming hot springs.

Fig on a Rock

Following the river downstream, you may not see a human being for hours. Suddenly you will come to a bright yellow strangler fig tree which seems to be sitting atop a rock, contemplating a narrow, sandy beach shaded by leafy guava trees. A few yards from the beach there is a spring of clean, cold water bubbling out of the ground.

O Mein Gott!

Like Swiss violinist Nathalie Vandroogenbroeck, you may be taken aback by the natural beauty of this charming river. “O mein Gott!” shouted Ms. Vandroogenbroeck on her first visit to Rio Caliente, “this place is magic! If I were doing one of those meditation exercises in which you have to visualize a spot where you feel just right, totally at peace, this incredible river is what I would imagine.”

The enchanting hot river gets lots of visitors on weekends, but is nearly deserted Monday to Friday. The entrance and parking fees add up to about one U.S. dollar. The forest is an ecologically protected nature reserve covering over 76,000 acres. It’s open to the public but has none of the facilities you would find in a managed park. However, there is a laid-back, commercial spa (also called Rio Caliente)located near the river, with fine accommodations, pools of various temperatures and unforgettable toilets which flush with steaming hot water.

Rio Caliente is located 12 miles west of Guadalajara off the highway to Nogales and Tepic.

The copyright of the article Rio Caliente: West Mexico's Hot River in Mexican Travel is owned by John Pint. Permission to republish Rio Caliente: West Mexico's Hot River in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.