The Shrimp Ladies of Mazatlán, Mexico's Old Town
To Buy Fresh Shrimp in Mazatlán, Go the Resort's Historic Center
Nov 7, 2009
Mazatlán processes thousands of tons of shrimp annually, a large portion of which flows directly to the city's many popular restaurants. Residents know all about the shrimp ladies, but few tourists shop for fresh seafood in Mazatlán's historic old town.
The Coastal Mexican Resort of Mazatlán
Unlike the government-created tourist destinations like Cancun and Ixtapa, Mazatlán dates back several hundred years. Initially a fishing village, the town became a pirate lair, then a military outpost. Tourists were first drawn to Mazatlán for the world-class fishing, which still attracts many of the million-plus annual visitors. Mazatlán also stretches along 15 miles of some of the most beautiful west coast beaches in Mexico. These golden sand beaches and warm ocean water just south of the Tropic of Cancer draw tourists from all around the world.
The west coast of Mexico, from the Pacific Ocean shores north along the Sea of Cortez, is well-known for sport fishing, but shrimp is by far the most important product from the sea. Delicious fresh shrimp can be found all along this coast, and Mazatlán is one of the premier sites. Although most tourists spend their vacations in the Zona Dorada (Golden Zone) north of the downtown, the historic old town district is rich with sights worth seeing, including the open air shrimp markets.
The Historic Old Town of Mazatlán
Viejo Mazatlán, or Old Mazatlán, lies at the southern end of the 15-mile Mazatlán peninsula. The Plaza de la Repubica is the central city plaza, and sits in the center of the historic district. Nineteenth century mansions can still be found here, together with the upscale shops and restaurants of Plazuela Machado, the restored opera house, Teatro Angela Peralta, and the twin-spired cathedral, Basilica de la Purisima Concepcion. Across the street from the cathedral is the popular Panamá Restaurant and Pasteleria, home of the best pastries in Mazatlán.
Two blocks north of the cathedral is the Pino Suárez market, the sprawling central market that covers a full city block. The bustling Pino Suárez market is the real heart of old town Mazatlán, a 110-year-old "super" market that is as colorful as it is functional. From the northeast corner of the Pino Suarez market, the shrimp ladies can be found just five blocks north on Aquiles Serdan.
The Shrimp Ladies of Old Town Mazatlán
Stretched along Aquiles Serdan, between Luis Zuniga and Alejandro Quijano, the shrimp ladies are impossible to miss. A sea of colorful umbrellas shade the open air "shops", which consist of iced tubs of fresh shrimp and other seafood,as well as the persuasive ladies who sell them. The shrimp are sold by the kilogram, and are sorted by type, color and size into different tubs. Prices are relatively fixed, although it pays to wander among the vendors and compare asking prices for similar shrimp. The prized large blue shrimp command the highest prices, but one is not likely to be disappointed with any choice. Freshness is the key consideration, and this can be confirmed by smelling the shrimp.
It's also important to watch the weighing and packaging of your order. You can reject partials or unattractive shrimp, and you can select the ones you want. The shrimp ladies are expert at weighing their shrimp, with or without their antique-looking scales. The shrimp ladies' scales are not certified by any department of weights and measures, but a recent unofficial test, using a postal scale, found that virtually all of the ladies could measure out a precise kilo by hand. That same test found that the kilos were running about ten percent shy before the postal scale was introduced. On the other hand, the prices are fair enough to compensate for any small errors in weight.
The ladies will put your shrimp into an iced plastic bag, so you can continue shopping. Just be sure to discard the ice and wash the shrimp with purified water before cooking them.
Getting to the Shrimp Ladies from the Golden Zone
Any taxi or pulmonia driver will know exactly how to find the shrimp ladies. Bus drivers also know the location, and if your bus is headed to the central Pino Suarez market, it will drive down Aquiles Serdan, right by the shrimp ladies. If you choose to drive your own car from the Golden Zone, stay on the main waterfront road, Avenida del Mar, until you come to the Fisherman's Monument. Just past the monument, turn left onto Aquiles Serdan, and follow it until you see the shrimp ladies' umbrellas.
Mazatlán's restaurants serve some of the best shrimp in Mexico, but nothing is quite as good as preparing your own. For those tourists with access to a kitchen, a visit to the shrimp ladies will be as fun as it is rewarding.
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