Gray whales, which grow up to 50 feet long and can weigh 40 tons, journey from summer feeding grounds in far north seas to give birth in Baja's warm, sheltered lagoons in the winter. Calves, 15 feet long and 1500 pounds at birth, nurse on 53-percent-fat milk, gaining some 200 pounds a day. They need a lot of blubber to accompany their mothers back to cold Arctic waters in late spring.
An eco-tourism industry grew up around the presence of the friendly whales in Bahia Magdalena, or Magdalena Bay, a two-hour drive from the historic town of Loreto on the east side of the peninsula. Several outfitters offer whale camps, all-inclusive excursions that feature several days of whale-watching and nights spent right on the lagoons.
Magdalena Bay Whale Camp
Sea Kayak Adventures sets up a whale camp on Isla Santo Domingo, an uninhabited barrier island with more than 12 miles of wide beach surrounding wind-sculpted dunes. Participants fly into Loreto, where SKA picks them up for travel by van to Lopez Mateos. There, they board pangas to cross the bay to camp, often spotting whales on the way.
On the island, camp includes half a dozen tents scattered discreet distances from each other along the top of grassy dunes, a large dining tent, solar shower stall, and an eco-toilet with a view of the bay and dunes. Days began at 7 AM with hot breakfast, then boarding pangas for whale watching. The whales sometimes come close enough to boats to touch, and often spy-hop, or raise their heads high above the water. The pangeros, or boat drivers, have an organized rotation for taking out groups. The best drivers have a real eye for spotting surfacing whales and a sense of a respectful distance from them.
Lunch can be followed by walks along the remote beaches, beach-combing (although taking shells isn’t allowed, photographs are), hiking through the dunes, or kayak trips to mangroves, which are excellent places to bird watch and perhaps spy dolphins or sea lions. Birds, dolphins, and even the whales can also occasionally be spotted from camp. Around 5 PM each day, the guides serve happy hour, followed by supper and socializing under the stars. The guides offer talks on whales and other subjects.
Vans transport the group back to Loreto for a farewell dinner and a night in a hotel. Loreto has a plaza of shops (cruise ships have begun stopping here), a historic mission, and a scenic malecon, or seawall.
Baja Expeditions Camp
From January through April, Baja Expeditions, the area's oldest outfitter, offers Bahia Magdalena whale-watching excursions originating in La Paz. Baja Expeditions also offers whale-watching trips to San Ignacio Lagoon, north of Bahia Magdalena on the Pacific coast. Accommodations are safari-style tents and cots, with staff-prepared meals and whale watching from small boats.
Airline Service to Baja
Alaska Airlines and Aeromexico serve Loreto and La Paz airports. Rental cars and taxi service are available at both airports. Both cities also offer banks, hotels, restaurants, and shopping.
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